If you’re building a beauty brand, one of the smartest investments you can make is bringing a cosmetic scientist into your product development process. From skincare to haircare and makeup, these professionals ensure your product isn’t just trendy but safe, effective, and scalable.
We spoke with Dr. Julian Sass, a cosmetic scientist and inclusive beauty advocate, about what founders need to know when working with a cosmetic chemist. In this interview, Dr. Sass shares insider insights on how to work with a cosmetic scientist, common mistakes to avoid, and why more Black scientists are needed in the beauty industry.
What Does a Cosmetic Scientist Really Do?
“Cosmetic scientists are essential for bringing products to market,” Dr. Sass begins.
“Our roles go beyond just creating formulas. We’re responsible for raw material vetting, quality control, scale-up for manufacturing, regulatory compliance, and product testing.”
In short: without scientists, most beauty products would never reach the shelf at least not safely or effectively.
Beyond Skincare: Why Every Beauty Category Needs a Cosmetic Scientist
One of the biggest misconceptions Dr. Sass encounters is that scientists are only essential for skincare products. In reality, formulation is key in all categories from makeup to haircare.
“Hair chemistry and color cosmetics are specialized fields within cosmetic science. Within hair, understanding the target market is crucial. For makeup, color matching and formula consistency across shades are non-negotiable,” he explains.
When Should Founders Bring in a Scientist?
“The earlier, the better,” says Dr. Sass. “Having a cosmetic scientist on board while you’re developing your product brief can make the entire process smoother. We can help assess what’s feasible and even assist with base formulas that manufacturers can work from.”
He emphasizes that many delays or product failures happen because founders wait too long to involve a professional.
Common Misconceptions About Formulating
A major misstep? Expecting fast results.
“Custom formulation is not a quick process,” Dr. Sass shares. “We’re balancing innovation with long-term stability. Rushing your chemist or manufacturer can lead to problems that aren’t visible right away like instability, separation, or regulatory issues.”
Dr. Sass recalls working with a client who submitted an impossible brief something that wasn’t scientifically feasible.
“We made major changes, which saved them so much time. Without that early feedback, they would have wasted time with manufacturers or received products that didn’t meet their expectations.”
What Founders Should Look For in a Scientist
- Expertise in your product category
- Connections with suppliers and manufacturers
- Awareness of trends from both a formulation and consumer perspective
According to Dr. Sass, a knowledgeable scientist won’t just help you create a product they’ll help you build a brand that lasts.
What to Know Before You Start
Every beauty founder should come prepared with a strong product brief. That means knowing:
- Your target market
- Must-have and avoid-at-all-cost ingredients
- Texture and performance expectations
- A realistic budget
“This document is your North Star,” Dr. Sass says. “It informs every part of the process.”
On Black Representation in Cosmetic Science
Is there an underrepresentation of Black scientists in labs? Absolutely, says Dr. Sass.
“Most people in formulation labs are white men. This contributes to formulas that aren’t always ideal for darker skin tones. But representation needs to extend beyond the lab. We need more Black people involved in writing product briefs and setting brand goals.”
The takeaway? Representation at every stage of development is essential for creating inclusive, high-performing products.
Common DIY Formulation Mistakes
Dr. Sass warns that independent founders who attempt to formulate at home often make serious mistakes, such as:
- Non-compliant labeling
- Lack of stability testing
- Poor (or no) preservation systems
- Not following Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)
“If you’re making products in your kitchen, you’re not set up to scale,” he cautions.
How to Collaborate Effectively
“Come in with clear goals but also an open mind,” Dr. Sass advises. “Challenges will come up that’s normal. But our job is to make sure your products are safe, effective, and ready for market.”
Where to Find Dr. Julian Sass
You can connect with Dr. Sass on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube at @drjuliansass, or visit drjuliansass.com to explore his sunscreen database and full list of brand services.
READ ALSO: How Makeup Formulations Affects Your Skin: The Science of Cosmetics